Wednesday, 27 April 2011

Rose La Touche (1848 - 1875)

She was described by artist John Ruskin as the love of his life. Blonde, fair and blue eyed; she “walked like a little white statue through the twilight woods”.

She was 11 years old when Ruskin fell in love with her. He was 30 years older than her, and was nicknamed St Crumpet by a young Rose. Some say their relationship later became the basis of Nabakous’ novel Lolita.

Rose’s parents did not approve of their daughters relationship with Ruskin. And he had to wait until she came of age at 17 before he could propose. There were religious differences as he had given up his faith years before, and Rose turned him down. There were also many rumours about his first marriage to Effie (Euphemia) Gray. Five years after this first marriage Effie was still a virgin. And it’s said that he was never able to consummate this marriage as the naive bachelor was so accustomed to the smooth contours of classical statues that he was revolted on his wedding night to find his wife had pubic hair and never tried to bed her again. Effie, then Mrs Millais, warned Rose’s mother that he was “quite unnatural”.


This sounds like an awful situation: a young Rose, who we would now think of as a child, being romanced by a man 30 years her elder. But Victorian Britain was not the same as it is now. Although the age gap was large, it wasn’t unheard of. And the romance itself would have been very proper, with no more contact than the occasionally held hand or petted cheek until Rose had reached what we would think of as a more acceptable age. Anything further would have been scandal indeed. If Rose’s parents had liked Ruskin she may have been married to him by the age of fourteen or fifteen, with all the responsibilities of a household and husband. Childhood as we know it is a modern invention. And during the Victorian era the teenager did not exist at all. Once a child had reached puberty they were treated very much as a young adult, with very difference than if they were much older. In the same way, until a girl left her parents household she would have been expected to be submissive and respectful and in many ways behave very childishly.


Rose died 10 years after this proposal at the age of 27 in a Dublin nursing home, suffering from anorexia, a broken heart, and religious mania. She’d always been considered as strange in her behaviour from a very young age. And her death tipped Ruskin over the edge in his own boughts of insanity.

Rose wasn’t the only child that Ruskin fell in love with. Again in 1887, at almost 70, he fell in love with and proposed to a young teenager – Kate Olander. A letter written to her really shows the odd way he saw these girls. “I was lying awake last night and planned what you will wear around your neck… it is to be finest and purest chain of Venice… no gold is so pure and they make the links so small it looks like the white of Avenel’s girdle… but I’m going to have it seven times round; rather tight for a necklace to show what a perfectly chained and submissive child you are; so mind you send me the measure carefully, just above the shoulders.” Kate’s letters back to the white bearded Ruskin were kept from him, and he was left with just his art and the Lakeland fells.

Inspired by this true account, my Rose wears a period correct outfit from around 1860, when she would have been 12 years old. I’ve taken certain liberties with the length of her skirts as they should reach to just about above her ankles, donating that she was almost an adult, but I wanted to emphasis her childlike appearance. Her underwear as well as her dress is as correct as I could make it. She wears a pair of crotchless baggy bloomers under a shift that reaches to her knees and an under-petticoat, all of strong white cotton and undecorated so they could be scrubbed clean. Over these she wears a corset instead of a younger child’s stays, showing that she is no longer really seen as a child herself. And a crinoline of round steel hoops, covered in pink satin, that come to just below her knees. To ensure her legs are covered completely a frilly pair of pantalettes stick out from under her skirts. After another plain white cotton petticoat over her crinoline is a fancy petticoat that matches her dress, with a deep flounce and trimmed with a delicate blue embroidered ribbon. Next is one of the first layers you can actually see, with a pair of under-sleeves and a chemisette (false blouse) of silk cotton. Her dress itself is made from a fine semi-transparent pale beige cotton lawn fabric that has a beautiful feel to it. It has pagoda sleeves, a fitted back buttoning bodice, three deep flounces, and a wide sash tied in back in a big bow; all trimmed in a cream satin ribbon, pearl bead buttons, and a touch of lace.

Tuesday, 26 April 2011

A First Look At Rose La Touche

Rose is finally finished, and these are the first photos of her. I'll be following with full details and some more pics tomorrow, but I've been editing all night and it's bed time for me now. I just really wanted to show her off a little before I shut down for the night. The photos really don't do the beautiful striped cotton lawn fabric I used for her dress justice, but I really hope you like my first doll with a real crinoline :)




Wednesday, 20 April 2011

Rose Is Almost Dressed!

After my mess last week when I had to undo all the work I'd done to Rose's sleeves and bodice she's finally getting back on track. She now has silk cotton undersleeves and a chemisette (false blouse), and I've decided to make her dress of the same stripped cotton lawn as her petticoat. I'll need to redo her pantalettes as well as they matched the original fabric, so I have a lot of re-working to do over the next few days. And I have to admit I hate having to redo things.
It's a beautiful sunny day, so hopefully I'll get some sewing done at some point.
Even the little lizards in my garden are enjoying the sun. This little guy is missing his tail!





Saturday, 16 April 2011

Work in Progress - Rose La Touche

 
A few photos of Rose in her smart petticoat and corset. And one of my beautiful Lilac, just starting to flower.

Her top petticoat is made for a fine stripped cotton lawn that's been trimmed with an embroidered ribbon. Underneath she has one of plain white cotton over her crinoline. Her corset has pulled her baggy shift into pretty gathers, and she's very happy to get her tiny waist back again.
Next she'll be getting a white silk cotton chemisette and false sleeves under a peach gown. Which will have a little ribbon and lace trim.

And isn't my Lilac starting to look pretty :) It smells great already!









Rose in Petticoats and Corset

Rose is starting to look quite pretty in her second layer of underwear.
She now has a plain white cotton petticoat over her crinoline, as well as a smarter stripped cotton lawn one that has an embroidered ribbon trim.
Her corset has pulled in all of her baggy shift into pretty gathers. And sure very pleased to have her tiny waist back again.
Next on my to do list is her chemisette and false sleeves. Then onto her dress.
I'm trying this from my phone for the first time ever, so I really hope it works ;-)
The photo's are following in just a minute.




Sunday, 10 April 2011

Rose La Touche in her Undies!

Finally got some work done and started dressing Miss Rose La Touche.

It's taken a while to figure out the style the of clothes for Rose. I really wanted to dress her as she would have been at about 15 years old. But it's surprisingly hard to find picture reference of adolescent girls at around 1760.

All the fashion plates and illustrated reference I could find shows either young women, or small children, with nothing in between. I know that at the time girls wore only slightly different clothes to their mothers, and the differences were only slight to distinguish adult from child. The idea of child specific clothing didn't exist.

Young girls went from wearing stiff stays when quite little to wearing a full corset by their early teens. And the short childish skirts grew as they did until they reached the floor.

I'd not really thought about it, but growing up then must have been nothing like what we know. I got to run around, ride my bike, skate and generally be silly with my friends. If I'd grown up when Rose had, I'd have had to sit quietly, learn to sew and darn, and how to run a household.

Playing dolls then was a very serious business to teach young girls to be mothers before they were married, sometimes at what we would think to be a very young age.

Rose was one of these girls. Still in short skirts and Pantalettes when the artist John Ruskin fell in love with her, although he didn't propose until she came of age at 17 as her parents disapproved of him for his lack of religion.
This seems extreme, but although there was a big age difference (her 20 to his 50 years old) even then, it wasn't unheard of for older men to marry very young women.

I started Rose's underwear with her Drawers (or knickers) which are big baggy things, gathered at the knee and with an open crotch (it doesn't seem like I'm ever going to dress a doll without crotchless knickers!). The bagginess of the bum in these bloomers keeps them closed  really well. You'd think that there would be quite a draft, but the cut of them seems to work.

Next came her Chemise, with short sleeves and a round neckline that's almost off the shoulder. It's gathered to a narrow yoke neckline and reaches to below her knees.

Like all her bottom-most layer of underwear, her under-petticoat is made of a plain, undecorated white cotton. As far as I can find out all underwear at this time was made of sturdy stuff that could be washed and scrubbed repeatedly. I cartridge pleated this under-petticoat to a wide waist band, and added a corset on top.

I have to give a major big Thank You to my father-in-law for his help with the Crinoline.

He gave me a few funny looks once I explained why I needed them, but he helped me cut the flat metal bands I used to the right lengths, and then helped me figure out how to fix them together into hoops.

I covered these hoops with a satin ribbon before hanging them on 6 vertical bands which are attached to a waistband with a tie in the back.

I decided to make the crinoline removable in case there was a problem with positioning her or getting her to sit. But the hoops work really well. I can't imagine having to wear one myself, but I hope I get the chance to try one out for myself one day. There's something really girly about it.

Saturday, 26 March 2011

Elizabeth Armistead 1750 - 1842

“You are all to me. You can always make me happy in circumstances apparently unpleasant and miserable… Indeed my dearest angel, the whole happiness of my life depends on you.” Charles James Fox wrote to Elizabeth Armistead.
            Born Elizabeth Bridget Cane, it’s unknown if Elizabeth ever married or if she adopted the name Armistead from an early protector as was the frequent custom of the day. Her lovers already having included Dukes, Earls and the Prince of Wales himself, and at the age of 33 she had secured a substantial independent income through two handsome annuities, it isn’t known why or how Elizabeth embarked on her career as a courtesan. And there are many different accounts of how this may have come about. Some believe that she was found by Mrs Goudby, the celebrated Lady Abbess that run an expensive and magnificently elegant “Nunnery” in Marlborough Street which only catered to the very wealthy men of London. Or even by her neighbour Mrs Windsor’s house, where the Prince of Wales and Fox were known to be patrons.
In letters written to Elizabeth Fox states “I could change my name and live with you in the remotest part of Europe in poverty and obscurity. I could bear that very well, but to be parted I cannot bear.” She had stillness, a luminosity that was the perfect contrast to Fox’s hectic energy. With fresh good looks and wonderful rich dark hair; beautiful, but not described as stunningly so, Elizabeth possessed all the important attributes, such as an elegant figure and great ability in the arts of seduction. She was more importantly a good and sympathetic listener. Always bringing out the best of those around her, the secret to her success was her ability to make a man believe himself the centre of the universe. She had intelligence, and was clear headed in her attitude towards money. Through her annuities she was a householder in her own right, owning two houses in London and one in St Anne’s Hill. It was in 1783 that she fell in love with Charles James Fox. Even in his earliest letters Fox always treats Elizabeth as an intellectual equal, and with absolute confidence and trust. It was an unusual relationship for the highly popular courtesan. She was a woman of means, while he had lost all his money at the gaming tables. But this was a love connection and not a business one.
At a point when Elizabeth found herself in dept. she took the unlikely decision to stay with Fox, although he could not provide for her, and sold her houses in London – giving up her public life to live in St Anne’s Hill. They settled into a quiet life together. Visited by their powerful friends, they always welcomed visitors, especially children as they had none of their own. They lived in domestic happiness with Fox considering himself a married man with Elizabeth his wife, even though they were still unmarried after many years. Their friends considered them the same, although as a mistress Elizabeth was excluded from much of fox’s social life. After a friend, the banker Coutts, started to make advances to Fox regarding marrying his daughter, the usually serene Elizabeth could no longer keep her feelings to herself, and Fox realised that she had long been the wife of his heart, and it was time to make her his legal wife. But Elizabeth had douts, and tried more than once to talk Fox out of the marriage for his own sake. She knew that as a former courtesan she would never be accepted into society as his wife. But Fox loved her wholeheartedly and insisted. They even kept the marriage a secret on Elizabeth’s insistence for several years. When finally announced the women of society had the chance to decide for themselves.
Most found it impossible not to like her. And most were shocked that they had kept it secret for so long. Returning to public life Fox became ill and finally died in Sept 1806 with his ‘beloved Liz’ beside him. She lived for a further 36 years at St Anne’s Hill where they had always been so happy. Dyeing peacefully just three days short of her 92nd birthday, she was never without family and friends visiting her during her later years. Her last wish was that she be buried in Westminster with her dear husband, which sadly was not to happen. The sons and grandsons of her former patrons were among the principal mourners at her funeral.
Source - Courtesans – Katie Hickman





Elizabeth Armistead has clothing that is all hand sewn, and is as correct to the period as I could make it. I’ve made her as she would have been between the years 1793-97, when she would have been in her early 40’s, when I think she was just about to give up her public life and settle into peaceful domestic life with Fox at St Anne’s Hill. She would have always been at the height of fashion; along with the other great courtesans leading the way with the newest styles. Even though you can’t see it, she wears a long sleeveless shift that reaches to her ankles, and no bloomers! They weren’t worn at this period, and didn’t start coming in until the gowns became very transparent and light. I have given her a little pair of lacy knickers as I can’t stand the thought of people looking up her skirts and seeing she has none on. And for some reason, everyone looks up a doll’s skirts, I’ve no idea why. She wears a set of short stays, and a high waisted petticoat that’s held under her bust by straps that go over her shoulders that has a pale pink ribbon trim. Elizabeth’s gown is made of a very fine cotton voile fabric, made in two layers to give her an under and overdress.

The sleeves are ¾ length with a puffy top, and her sash is again of pale pink satin ribbon tied just under her bust and left trailing down the back of her skirts. The under-dress has a lace trimmed hem, and the overdress has a very deep lace decorated hem made by cutting and individually applying lace pieces to give the look of white-work embroidery. The skirts of this period would have been fuller than in the later Jane Austen period, with most of the bulk at the back of the dress, and a slightly higher back than the front. Elizabeth’s Pelisse (coat) is made of a dusky pink silky dupion fabric and made in the same shape as her gown using the Spencer design as a guide. And her Poke bonnet has been handmade to fit, with satin ribbon and lace flower trim.
It is important to me to create a correct costume that provides the right shape and support as well as the right feel. And Elizabeth’s clothing, although it appears simple, is full of details to make it as authentic as possible.

She has rich brown hair, with lavender eyes. And she carries a small silk and lawn reticule trimmed with lace and beading. She’s a lovely doll to hold, with a nice weight and size.

Her pellise and bonnet are both removable. And the train of her gown hooks up in the back, as it would have been to stop it dragging on the ground outside and getting dirty.

Hand sculpted from paperclay, with jointed arms at the shoulder and elbow, and legs at the hip and knee.
Elizabeth Armistead would make a perfect gift for all those like me that like unusual but sweet odd little dolls.

This doll stands at 49cm tall, weighs approx. 280g.